Embroidery Techniques for Caps:
It must have happened to you at least once that the matrix that
works perfectly right to embroider on a shirt, it doesn't work when you want to
embroider the same design on a cap.
You should wonder how it is possible when today there are very
advanced software and high technology. The punching and embroidering seem to be
a great mystery.
We will try to help you out to improve the results.
Movements of the frame:
When you embroider caps using a frame there are several factors
to take on account. Example #1 shows a front sample of a fabric held in a flat
drum, ready to be embroidered. In this case the needle punch the fabric in a 90
degree angle. The frame makes a straight and precise movement and the next
stitch penetrates the fabric on a 90 degree angle again, that is simply because
the drum is flat and the tension on the fabric is uniform.
Example #2 shows a front sample of a cap held on a cap frame.
Comparing the two examples, it is easy to see how the movement of the frame in
case number one is much simpler. In both cases the movements are straight and
uniform. In the case of the cap frame we have a revolving movement on x- axis
and a straight movement in y-axis, that is why there is always a small
Held the cap in the frame
Another problem with the cap embroidery is that the cap is
held with clamps in the frame and it doesn't get the same firmness that the
ones on a flat frame, it doesn't reach the same uniform tension.( see ex. 3)
The trick to obtain great results on the final embroidery, is
to hold the cap in a way that remains flat and firmly hooked within the
Picture of a cap
held within a cap frame
There are some specialized
companies that offer flat frames made to hold caps. This is a very good
alternative since the results in the embroidering, in several cases, are
superior in comparison with the results done in regular cap frames. (
see example 4).
Punching for caps
In order to know a little more about this subject, we should
start with the punching. The punching should be made in a way to be able to
compensate the obstacles. Due to the curved form of the caps and the problem
of sliding that can happen during the embroidering, it is very important to
punch each area individually.
Lets take as an example letters made with fill type stitches that have an
edge around and a shade on the back. It is better to make each letter
individually. If you don't make the letters individually, there will be a
problem with the coincidence between the diverse parts. (It sees ej. 5).
It must be clear that the
punching of the design done in this way increases the changes of
needle/colors and the thread cuts. The final result and the quality of the
embroidery justifies this sacrifice. Usually designs must be punch avoiding
too many changes of needle and thread cuts, with a rationalizing vision. But
this is different for the punch in caps.
1) (H) Grey shadow
2) (H) Orange fill
3) (H) Brown edge
4) (A)Grey shadow
5) (A)Orange fill
6) (A)Brown edge
Example #6 shows a typical problem on the embroidery, there are
a few parts in the design that donґt match.
We recommend to do cord type stitches for the sides of the bus.
We generally donґt recommend to use thin stitches for the side areas of large
designs that will be embroidered in cap frames.
Another very important general rule is the direction of the
embroidery. You should start the punch on the center of the cap to the right
side. Once it is ready, you should continue from the center to the left until
the design is finish.
In this way, it is possible to diminish the poblem of the waves on the fabric
of the cap and reduce the unmatching parts. ( See ex. #7).
In caps armed on 6 panels, another problem is that the stitches
tend to disappear in the place where it is en la bastilla. La bastilla is
located in the front throughout the center of the cap. It is recommendable to
place an important back of support stitches in those places where parts of the
design will be placed.(See ex. 8 a/b).
The Support stitches are quite important in designs embroidered in caps. Place
the angle of the support stitches in the opposite sense to the borders of the
After the back stitches to stabilize the bastilla, this part
of the design is cover support and relleno stitches.
In this example the puncher uses zigzag stitches to cover the
area in which the bastilla is
Do not exagerate on the size of the small letters. We recommend
a minimum of 8 mm of height.
There are situations in which it is better to fill the back with fill stitches
embroider the letters on top of that. We recommend to make the refill in the
same colour of the cap. ( See. Ex 9)
The punching and embroidery of cap designs can be a great challenge. Try
it and donґt lose hope.
Back made in fill type stitches. The back
colour is the same colour of the cap.